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55w hid vs halogen3/28/2024 Your factory electrical system is designed around the alternator put on your truck. as mentioned before, it decreases the amount of amps your alternator puts out. So instead of trying to transfer X amount of energy over say 10 cm, you are transfering the energy over 15 cm.Īnd underdriving crank pulleys and alternators (as well as other accessories) has been around in the drag racing world for decades. the taller tire is going to have a bigger footprint on the ground, even if the width's are the same). You would be increasing the contact patch between the belt and pulley (think of it as like putting a taller tire on your truck. There are however, a couple company's that make series switching regulators to replace the shunt regulator, which is a huge improvement for those interested.Ī larger pulley would actually put less stress on the belt, imo. This is because they can't control voltage by changing the magnetic field, instead they use a shunt regulator which grounds the output until the voltage drops to the required level. ![]() These alternators do put out a constant current. It should be noted that most motorcycles are 3-phase, permanent-magnet alternator to save space / weight. Replacing 2 55 watts bulbs with 2 35 watt HIDs will save 40 watts, about. Using these numbers, that 1 headlight will take. However an automotive style alternator is only about 60% efficient so 1 hp should be good for 447 watts. To convert, it takes 1 hp to make 745 watts. No matter how fast you spin the alternator, as long as you have 14.8 volts the output will remain the same. Using Ohm's law, 55 watts at 14.8volts is 3.716 amps. If you disconnect everything from the alternator except one headlight and you spin the engine up enough to get to 14.8v, somewhere between 600-1200 depending on alternator and pulley, the load would be 55 watts. ![]() The amount of current is totally dependent on the load. The alternator does not supply current (Amps), it puts out voltage, around 14.8v in GMs case. seeing how you would be putting less amperage through it. On a side note, you would see less wear/tear through the electrical system. Now if you wanted to decrease the parasitic loss by putting on a bigger pulley on the alternator, you would decrease the output of the alternator, and spin the alternator at a slower speed, putting less drag on the pulley system, but you would also be increasing the rotational weight of the pulley. The only way you can change the amp output of your alternator is either by overdriving it (by putting a smaller pulley on it, which will greatly increase wear/tear), or by re-winding the coils with thicker wire. whether or not you use all 130 amps won't vary the speed or how much voltage gets put into/out of the alternator. It's not like the truck's computer is telling your alternator it needs X amount of amps and the alternator puts that out. You can't change the amperage at a flick of a switch. varying on what package/options you got). When your engine reaches ~1000 rpms, it should be putting out it's maximum amperage (IIRC most dmax's come with 130 amp alternators. The armature (attached to the belt pulley) spins inside the coils (IIRC there are 3 in most alternators), and when the coils are energized you get electricity. You have two basic working parts in the alternator (I'm generalizing this A LOT, there are actually more than two parts, but there are two main parts). You have a good general idea of how it would up until the most important part, the alternator. ![]() Click to expand.Close but no, it will not.
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